Phnom Penh traffic January 31
The traffic here defies description. It’s nearly complete chaos at times. The traffic is a majority of motorbikes, with some cars, trucks, and bicycles mixed in. All of the rules of the road we take for granted are treated as mere suggestions here.
Driving on the correct side of the road, for instance. Most people drive of the right. Except for when it’s too much hassle to cross a busy road, in which case they drive slowly on the outside, going the wrong way. So there’s effectively four different flows of traffic. The two main ones in the center, and then two more going opposite directions on the outside. Not to mention the occaisonal motorcycle cutting across at an angle going the wrong direction, in the process of making a turn too soon.
Another example is waiting for a break in traffic before crossing, either to turn, or to continue straight on a side road. There is often no such thing as a break in traffic. So you wait for the traffic to lighten up, or at least be largely comprised of motorbikes.
Motorbike traffic is a liquid. It just flows around obstacles. Even on foot, you just step off the curb, and then the traffic just flows around you.
And stoplights. If the traffic is sufficiently light, and/or there are no policemen at an intersection looking to make some extra cash, obeying traffic lights is optional. So you’re never sure someone isn’t on a collision course with you, even if you have a green light.
And lastly, there’s a hierarchy on the road: trucks, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians, in that order. Being on a bicycle, I’m nearly at the bottom, which means I get absolutely no respect. I’ve had cars and motorbikes pull out right in front of me, while looking straight at me, and had trucks nearly run me off the road.
Anyone that’s ridden a bicycle in heavy traffic knows that it leads to an intensely focused mental state. You have to ride aggresively, or you’d never get anywhere. But you also have to ride defensively to avoid getting dead.
Riding in Phnom Penh is the most intense I’ve ever been on a bike. It’s also the most I’ve ever involuntarily swore out loud.